DAYS 32-34 & 49-51: KATHMANDU, NEPAL

My third world traveling experience consists of a few countries throughout Central and South Americas, as well as a couple in the Caribbean. And just recently, Thailand. Nepal, however, is on another level entirely. We spent five nights there in the capital city, Kathmandu, before and after our two-week trek.

In Kathmandu, you will likely see monkeys roaming the streets in packs. And sacred cows adorned in decorative headdresses and paints lounging in public plazas. You might witness an open-air cremation. Or pass by freshly cut goat heads displayed for sale. Much of daily commerce appears to be logistically handled through a maze of cheerful vendors on wooden wheeled carts and bikes. It’s safe to say that if the chaotic traffic and routine engine misfires aren’t keeping your head on a swivel as you walk around town, the unique surroundings certainly will.

There was much to enjoy, like, festivals lasting days. Our trip happened to coincide with Tihar, also called The Festival of Light. During the celebration, the Nepali people worship the goddess of wealth as well as dedicate days to the worship of dogs, cows, ravens, oxen, sisters and brothers. Clay lanterns light up the streets, children sing from door to door, windows and entryways are decorated with garlands made of marigolds and colorful offerings are displayed outside of houses and businesses. People dance and celebrate joyously throughout the night.

Everyone was friendly and welcoming, and the service was spectacular everywhere we went. We enjoyed watching children playing on gigantic bamboo swings. We loved the bright colored clothing. We stuffed ourselves with the delicious twenty-five cent samosa’s (think fried ball of curry) from the street vendor outside our hotel. And there are many temples to explore, some big, many small, some still decayed from the earthquake, some already rebuilt.

We also faced some challenging everyday truths. Much that was hard to see. This was especially true on a day that we took a five kilometer walk outside of Thamel, the primary tourist district. We walked through villages with extreme poverty. It made me realize how much I take for granted on a daily basis. Things just not available to many parts of the world. The same shortcomings that we often read about in our local newspapers but the experience of physically being there and seeing and walking through these neighborhoods was extremely moving.

Debris and fallout from last year’s earthquake were evidenced everywhere. Primitive shacks housing large families. Homeless people covered in more dirt and swaths of bugs than the scarcely patched clothing still wrapping their lifeless bodies. Lung filling dosages of city smog, fog, and dust. Milky textured rivers that run dark with trash drifting ashore. So much poverty.

A lack of city infrastructure. Decayed footbridges. Few sidewalks. Birdsnests of power lines cobbled together haphazardly. Wooden wheeled bikes, cart pushers, mopeds, goat herders, foot traffickers and cars all share the same narrow dirt roadways void of any traffic signs. Daily enforced power outages - that is, for those that even have power. Entire city blocks go dark after 10pm, making the otherwise harmless stray dogs and cats stepping out of alleyways seem frightening.

It has been an experience that has made us especially grateful. Grateful for sidewalks, traffic laws, garbage disposals, paved roads, clean water…happy for our health, family and incredibly thankful for the many fortunes gifted upon us.

When asked how we could best help Nepal, a bartender responded candidly, “Come here and spend your money.” But if that’s not an option, we have a included links to a couple charities in the notes section that were recommended to us.

-Brad